Smitten in Japan: where we meet Japanophiles with a fresh perspective on the lesser-known parts of Japan. This time, we explore a Tokyo neighborhood where nostalgia for the Japan of the past and alternative ways of thinking thrive: Koenji. This bohemian neighborhood is home to our guest, a man from Indonesia who runs a space that's simultaneously a music venue, cafe, restaurant and record store. He and others explain the appeal of the one-of-a-kind place known as Koenji.